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　自由开放、文艺古老、性感繁华……在阿姆斯特丹完美交融！

阿姆斯特丹是荷兰首都，对于有些人而言，它的联想词可能是灯红酒绿、郁金香，甚至是大麻……但只在这里短暂停留几天的我，对于这座城市的印象是自由，我当然无意探究这座城市的崛起与发展是否与自由主义相关，但走在这样一座同时融合传统沉着与现代激情，自由的空气中隐约夹带着淡淡大麻味的城市，还是很轻易就能从街头巷尾的小细节中感受到它的包容性与自由创新。虽然我并不喜欢任何与烟草相似的味道，但世界上有多少城市能让你暂时忘记大麻与罪恶的关系，甚至让它融入成为日常生活的一部分？

从小渔村变成全球顶尖城市之一的阿姆斯特丹有很多博物馆，但我对博物馆和历史本来就缺乏兴趣，所以唯独因为贪图新鲜而去了性博物馆(全名为性博物馆～维纳斯神殿/Sex museum Amsterdam Venustempel)，展览馆内收藏着许多让人“赤裸裸”探索两性躯体的特色模型、古罗马时期性雕塑复制品、以及各种性爱主题故事…

阅读更多

门面低调不张扬的性博物馆，付费后走进入却别有洞天，无论是画在卷轴、书册、磁瓶上的春宫画，抑或是用陶土、铜铁、象牙、大理石制成的性交人偶，甚至是各种特色模型，人类最原始的情欲和性欲在这道门后展现得淋漓尽致。

这里是独一无二的性文化大观园，位于繁华中央车站大街上的这座性爱博物馆，是阿姆斯特丹海纳百川、多元开放的象征之一。虽然官方旅游指南并不会特别介绍这个地方，但却是一个游客们都会口耳相传或知道它存在的地方。更重要的是，这座性博物馆从早上营业到晚上，夜晚百无聊赖很适合来这里逛一圈（可惜大马民风保守，精彩图库只能独享，想看的话只能自己去阿姆斯特丹噢！）

漫步街头或坐着歇息，时刻都能感受到阿姆斯特丹独一无二的优质生活感。

当然，即使不去博物馆，阿姆斯特丹也有很多值得再三回味的旅途记忆，比如街头上各种肤色或性向的人、夜晚霓虹灯亮起满是人潮的红灯区、让人不想离开的咖啡馆，甚至是街头舒适的休闲角落，虽然比起这里我更爱其他荷兰小镇或城市，但阿姆斯特丹与生俱来的自由气息，足以成为吸引我再次回去的理由，更何况这里也是到欧洲旅游的理想转机地，哈！

骑车租船悠闲时光

提起荷兰，很多人第一时间联想到风车，阿姆斯特丹市中心没有风车(虽然风车相关的纪念品很多)，真的很爱风车的人，可以搭公共交通到附近的桑斯安斯风车村(来回不过半天时间)。没有风车，那到底要干嘛呢？看花看河看树看天看市集的人流……都是这里独有的乐趣。

住在阿姆斯特丹的几天里，中央车站几乎成了每天必去的地方，因为这里是阿姆斯特丹最主要的公共交通枢纽之一。

很多人对城市生活的印象总离不开空气污染、交通拥堵、繁忙紧凑的负面词汇，不知道是不是因为汽车很少脚车很多的缘故，阿姆斯特丹却是一个舒服悠闲、自由开放得令人惊喜的城市，时光在这里显得格外安逸和欢愉。

运河边这些宛如乐高积木的房子是民宅，也是阿姆斯特丹的城市风景线之一。

阿姆斯特丹是水城，运河水系四通八达，所以也有北方威尼斯之称。虽然观光指南都推荐乘坐观光游船是游览水城风光，但其实花一整天时间慢慢散步，或租一辆脚车穿梭在一座又一座的桥上，更能体会荷兰生活的随意与自在。

不喜欢阿姆斯特丹大街上人来人往的热闹场景，不妨考虑沿着运河避开熙攘人群，从另一个角度看见这座城市独特别致的美景。

各种市集任君游逛

身为荷兰首都，阿姆斯特丹当然也遍布着各种有趣好逛的露天市集，各种风格和路线的市集总有一个适合你，从生活基本所需、艺术品到二手商品都应有尽有，绝对可以充分满足购物的欲望。

浓郁顺滑、散发坚果香气的绵密口感、柔软细腻或硬质熟成…荷兰作为世界上最大的乳酪出口国之一，来到阿姆斯特丹当然要尽情逛不同品牌的乳酪专卖店。

另一个我几乎每天都逛的地方是乳酪专卖店（大多数店家都可以试吃），我已经忘了当时自己到底买了多少款不同店家的乳酪带回国，反正送出一堆之后的存货还足够我吃上几个月。逛市集，是人在阿姆斯特丹不能不做的乐事之一。

欧洲市集都很好逛，阿姆斯特丹也不例外，随便一个市集都足以让人在这里消磨一整天。

有些城市适合短暂停留，但阿姆斯特丹适合居住，整座城市洋溢着轻松活力和多元自由的气氛，那种强大又深邃的优质生活感，足以成为吸引旅人不断回去的理由，甚至也会让人萌生移居长住的念头。

穿梭在日与夜、光与影之间，阿姆斯特丹的运河区处处是风景。

文／图：陈筱柔

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