蔡澜：草草不工——阿红靓米
我们是一个吃米长大的民族，没有一种食物美味过一碗炊得热腾腾，香喷喷的白米饭更慰藉我们的胃口。生了下来，经过短短的一个哺奶时期之后，我们第一口吃得满足的，就是那碗饭，至到我们死去，怀念的也是那一碗饭，没有其他主食可以代替的。
当然，如果在那碗饭上加了一匙脂玉般的猪油，让饭的热气慢慢地将凝固了的猪油溶化时，发出的那阵米饭和油脂混合的香味，尝过之后更是一发不可收拾，一生成为白米饭的囚徒了。可惜，这种滋味，因大家怕猪油不健康不去吃而消失，是一大憾事。
到了外国，法国餐意大利料理虽然美味，但一连三天不吃饭，喉咙就像会伸出一只手来，讨点饭吃。找到一家破中国餐厅，任何烂菜都不必点，只要有那一碗饭，淋点酱油，或加点菜汁，已经是非常满足的一餐。
我们一生离不开饭，但是我们对白饭的要求并不高。外国所有的好餐厅，面包一定是自己烤出来，但我们去了中国菜馆，不管名气多大，炊出来的白饭，还是那么地粗糙，这可能因为是我们的菜太过好吃，已经饱了，就不去注意白饭香或不香，这是很对不起白米饭的事。
日本人不同，他们的菜肴是用来下酒的，吃完了菜才去吃饭，叫为“食事”。吃饭时，配些泡菜，来一碗味噌汤，慢慢地欣赏米的香味，这才是对白饭的尊重。
要是你饥饿过，就会尊敬那碗白饭，倪匡兄来到香港，第一次尝到叉烧饭，已经乐得半天。他年轻时从军，老兵还教他添饭时要添个半碗，吃完了再去添第二碗，才有得剩，不然早就给别人抢光。
也许是没有经过穷困，现代人对白饭已有敬而远之的趋向，受报纸上健康版的影响，大家都认为白饭会吃肥人的，应该吃得越少越好，白米的销量已经降低，没有必要就不去碰了。
既然饭吃少了，就得求精了。香港人一贯吃泰国香米，确是好吃，味道那么香。但如果说到质感，还是日本米好吃，日本的米白白胖胖黏性又很强，所以他们吃饭的礼节是用筷子夹了送进口，不能把碗放在嘴边去扒，我们吃的米粒很散，不扒的话会跌得满地都是。
日本米是好吃，但我们的印象又是吃了会胖，一碗饭像一碗糖，不应该多吃。哪有这种事？日本米吃了胖，那么日本人不都变成胖子？
昼夜温度强烈中成熟
日本米也不是每一种都美味，出名的是新潟的日光米种，尤其是鱼沼地区的，用来炊饭一流，煲起粥来又那么软绵，真是百食不厌。比新潟米更好的，是山形出的“艳姬TSUYA HIME”米，比较一下就知道输赢。
有时在高级超市买到，拿回家一炊，一点香气也没有，那是米已过时，要吃的话非找新米不可。
正当以为“艳姬”是最好最香最糯的米时，钟楚红的友人送给我的，是一种东北五常地区产的白米，那真的可以说是我吃过的最好的白米了。
原来，五常米也分多种，大量生产的并不够水准，我吃的那种是粒粒饱满，晶莹剔透，每一粒都发亮，种这类米得有上好的水源，是用龙凤山的矿泉水灌溉，而且周围五公里以上无污染，之前也从未施用任何化学肥料的。
更进一步，需要纯正的种子，由水稻专家王象坤教授监管，严选最原始和最优良的米种，未曾受过基因转变的种子掺杂。
五常在北纬四十五度，专家们称为水稻种植黄金地域，拥有营养独特的蓄热砂层，复合积碳型的黑土，以一年一季的成熟期，在昼夜温度强烈的环境下成熟。
阳光也是最重要的，当地一年有两千五百小时的日照，种植区远离城市、工矿企业以及公路五公里。周围森林覆盖率高，生物类型多样化，造就美好优越的生态环境，形成有利于水稻生态资源。
至于耕种的稻农，都是一代传一代的专家，用最传统最古老的方式细心地培养出每一粒米，他们自觉性高，绝不妥协。
收成之后的包装管理又如何，生产的东方集团获中国第九届优质稻米博览交易会的金奖，又取得国际认同的ISO 9001质量管理体系、ISO 14001环境体系、ISO 22000食物安全管理体系的证书。
这么多资料之后，还有人问说：到底是不是有机？当然有机啦！
好东西，大众欣赏，现在钟楚红与我及东方集团合作，推出的大米命名“阿红靓米”，让大家也有机会尝尝。可惜，中国对大米的出口管理得十分严格，香港还没有办法取得准证，当今只有中国人能够在网上买到。希望有一天，可以把这种大米送到全世界每一个食米国家去。
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